How to Identify Good Quality Jewellery: A Buyer's Guide

Naturally, the materials used in good quality gold jewellery are a key indicator of its calibre. Genuine precious metals are relatively easy to spot, even for an untrained eye — usually demonstrated by weight and markings such as hallmarks or stamps.

Costume jewellery made with stainless steel, for example, holds no intrinsic value and is easily damaged, which is why we often choose to invest in a piece of good quality jewellery made from materials such as gold and diamonds. But why are certain metals better than others? And which should you choose?

Understanding the qualities of the components in luxury jewellery elaboration will help you understand how to choose durable jewellery for daily wear or special occasions. How to identify good quality jewellery will depend on the materials used: 

Silver jewellery is often marked with 925. This means it is 92.5% silver, and the remaining 7.5% is usually copper, which makes the metal harder. Silver is inexpensive compared to other metals used in good quality jewellery elaboration, but it can scratch and tarnish (change colour) quickly because it’s a relatively soft metal, even when alloyed with copper. 

Did you know? The copper component in silver jewellery can also provoke an allergic reaction in some people.

Gold is one of the most popular precious metals, whether for wedding jewellery or daily wear — often chosen for its fine balance between quality and price. It is less allergenic than silver and will not tarnish as quickly and easily. Gold is also resistant to most acids, making it a great, long-lasting option for timeless pieces. 

Did you know? Pure 24-karat gold will not tarnish. However, it is a relatively soft metal and may scratch more easily, which is why Fyne opts for 18k gold in all our collections.

Platinum is another metal synonymous with luxury accessories, often used in good quality jewellery elaboration. However, due to its rarity and complex manipulation, its price can be out of reach, with shoppers preferring to invest their savings in high-quality gold and diamonds than platinum.

Jewellery enthusiasts and experts alike know the allure of gem-embedded jewellery. Diamonds are the most popular gemstones after emeralds, rubies, and sapphires. These precious stones can enhance the jewellery's physical character and increase its value.

When investing, it’s a good idea to know what certifications to check for good jewellery. Good-quality gold jewellery should come with some kind of certification, which may be a hallmark (a type of engraving typically etched on the part of the jewellery that isn’t visible when you’re wearing it) or a physical certificate.

Each country has different certification rules (there is no universal certification). For example, in the UK, gold must have a hallmark, while in the US, it is optional. 

Note: At Fyne, all of our jewellery comes with a Certificate of Authenticity and a lifetime warranty, so you can browse and buy safely, knowing you are getting what you pay for. We also include a 750 stamp inside the ring band or jewellery to ensure its legitimacy as 18k gold.

Diamond ratings are also inconsistent globally, but each manufacturer must maintain consistency. We use the highest (D-F) colour grades and VVS-VS clarity grade lab-grown diamonds, which are also environmentally friendly, enhancing their quality from a moral perspective.

Luxury jewellery design typically starts with hand-drawn or digital sketches. Quality jewellers are unanimously detail-orientated, and the design process is meticulous. A model of the piece is made to make a mould, into which the molten metal is poured and set before removing the mould. Then, the piece is refined, buffed, and polished, and precious stones are added if desired.

On the other hand, mass-produced items hold significantly lower value. A handmade item is intrinsically more valuable because of its artisanal origins, and it is likely that even if a jeweller makes numerous pieces following the same design, the piece will have aspects that make it incredibly unique.

At Fyne, all of our luxury jewellery is handmade to order, in line with our sustainable ethos. If you are looking for something even more individualised, we can customise pieces or work with you to create the item of your dreams through our bespoke process.

There are various ways a jeweller can check the authenticity of your piece. You can also do many of these tests yourself at home! 

• The scratch test: The jeweller might perform an acid test because gold and silver do not react to acids. For this, they do a ‘scratch test’, scratching the item on a touchstone or ceramic plate. After, they place a few drops of acid onto the scratch mark (not the piece itself) to see if the scratch mark fades or disappears. If it does, the purity of your gold is not what you thought. 
• The magnet test: When testing gold jewellery, run a magnet over the piece (real gold and silver are not magnetic). You can do this test yourself at home!
• Symmetry and finishes: Look for smooth lines and finishes. Check for symmetry in pieces that are supposed to be symmetrical, with specific regard to the clasps if your jewellery has any gems embedded in it. Make sure any gems aren’t loose. If they are, it’s a sign of low-quality jewellery. 
• Breath test: For diamonds, one of the simplest ways to tell if they are real is to breathe on them. Diamonds disperse heat quickly, so the condensation should disappear quickly if you breathe on it. 

Note: For both gold and diamonds, these are simple tests you can perform at home, but locating a piece of jewellery’s certificate of authenticity and consulting with a reputable jeweller are recommendations you shouldn’t overlook.

The easiest way to ensure you get what you pay for with luxury jewellery is to buy from reputable jewellers. When it comes to jewellery investment, if it seems too good to be true, it probably is. 

Online shopping tip: If you’re buying online, compare similar pieces across different websites to ensure the price is similar. You can’t always ‘try before you buy’ online, so check your jeweller's returns policy, too. This way, if the piece drastically differs from its online description, you won’t be out of pocket. 

Nowadays, social proof is another tool for checking a jeweller’s reputation. Look for testimonials from satisfied clients on the company’s website or social media. We also recommend booking an appointment with the jeweller, especially if you’re buying online, so you can put a face to a company name. 

Remember: Any reputable jeweller should be able to take the time to prove that they are who they say they are and that you’re getting what you order when you invest in expensive pieces. At Fyne, we have a lifetime warranty on our products, so clients can buy more confidently, knowing their items can be repaired in the future — and will truly last a lifetime.